How Handloom Sarees Are Made

From yarn to the finished saree in your hands: the story behind the sarees and kurtis of My Tassels, from a family of weavers in Sirumugai, near Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu.

Rooted in Sirumugai, a handloom town

Sirumugai, in the Coimbatore district of Tamil Nadu, has been known for generations for its handloom sarees. Abi Silks began here in 1977, and our founder Gunasekaran V. was honoured with a National Award in 2012 for over five decades of work in handloom weaving. Everything we make carries forward that tradition: respect the craft, and keep the designs fresh.

From yarn to saree: the handloom process

A handloom saree is woven by hand, thread by thread, on a loom worked by the weaver. Here is how a saree typically comes to life.

Choosing the yarnEvery saree begins with the yarn: cotton, silk or a blend, chosen for the feel, drape and weight the design needs. The quality of the yarn decides how the saree wears and washes for years. Hands sorting skeins of cotton and silk yarn in many colours for handloom weaving

Hands sorting skeins of cotton and silk yarn in many colours for handloom weaving

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DyeingThe yarn is dyed to the colours of the design, and checked so that the shades match from one batch to the next. This is where the palette of a saree is born. A dyer lifting freshly dyed maroon yarn from a dyeing vat, coloured yarn drying in the sun

A dyer lifting freshly dyed maroon yarn from a dyeing vat, coloured yarn drying in the sun

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Warping and sizingHundreds of threads are measured, lined up in the right order and prepared as the lengthwise threads (the warp) that will run through the whole saree. Fine threads stretched over a warping frame and guided by a weaver's hands

Fine threads stretched over a warping frame and guided by a weaver's hands

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Setting up the loomThe warp is fixed on the loom, thread by thread, and the pattern for the border and body is set. A careful set-up is what gives a saree its clean lines. A weaver tying warp threads through the heddles of a traditional wooden handloom

A weaver tying warp threads through the heddles of a traditional wooden handloom

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WeavingThe weaver passes the crosswise thread (the weft) through the warp with a shuttle, working the pedals to lift the threads, and beats each pass into place. Borders, buttas and zari motifs are woven in as the saree grows, which is why a handloom saree takes patience. A handloom weaver passing the shuttle while a saree with a zari border grows on the loom

A handloom weaver passing the shuttle while a saree with a zari border grows on the loom

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FinishingThe saree is taken off the loom, trimmed, and finished with the edges, fringes and pallu tidied. Hands trimming and tidying the fringe of a freshly woven saree

Hands trimming and tidying the fringe of a freshly woven saree

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Checked by handEvery saree and kurti is looked over by hand before it is packed. If something reaches you damaged, we exchange it (see our exchange & refund policy). Women inspecting a folded saree by hand before packing

Women inspecting a folded saree by hand before packing

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What we make

The same eye for quality goes into everything in our store, at everyday prices:

Cotton sarees: light, breathable sarees for daily wear and work.
Fancy & daily sarees: sarees with a little more shine for gatherings and festivals.
Luxe collection: our richer pieces for special occasions.
Kurtis & sets: stitched and unstitched kurtis and salwar sets.
Accessories: bangles and finishing touches.

Why choose handloom?

Handloom fabric is woven with a softness and a drape that machines find hard to copy, and every piece is slightly different from the next. That is part of its charm. Because each piece is made in small numbers, a design can sell out for good, and small differences in shade or weave are natural (read our colour note).

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a handloom and a powerloom saree?

A handloom saree is woven by a weaver working the loom by hand and foot, so the pace and the finish depend on the weaver's skill. A powerloom saree is woven on a machine driven by electricity, which is faster but gives a more uniform result.

How long does it take to weave a saree?

It depends on the design. A plain saree takes much less time than one with rich borders and zari motifs, which are woven in by hand as the saree grows.

How should I care for my handloom saree?

Wash it gently by hand in cold water with a mild detergent, do not wring it hard, and dry it in the shade. Iron it on a low setting, and store it folded in a clean cotton cloth.

Will the colour match the photo?

We shoot in natural light and keep the colours as close as we can, but screens differ. Please read our colour note, and message us on WhatsApp if you want a closer look at a piece.

Where are you based?

Abi Silks, No.9 Annapoorani Palanisamy Nagar, Thenthirupathi Road, Alangombu, Sirumugai, Tamil Nadu 641302. We ship across India, tracked, with free shipping above Rs 3,000.

READ OUR STORY SHOP COTTON SAREES